The Goan crab cakes from the original menu have a contemporary referent in the gratinated crab balchao, while the direct call-outs of regional specialities have now mellowed, as more diners understand what to expect from regional Indian cuisines.
A tandoor, tawa griddle, and sigree charcoal grill showcase the great, varied barbecue cultures of India.
A broodingly fragrant venison samosa comes not wrapped, but in a gossamer pastry cone, completely changing the ratio of filling to pastry while nodding to the form that inspired it.
Slow-cooked curries offer lesser-seen London dishes like a Goan green curry based on cafreal, whose verdant gravy sings with coriander and citrus, and a Kerala prawn curry that balances pricklingly sour heat with rich coconut milk. A jackfruit biryani pays homage to Kayastha cuisine, while chaat is reconfigured in the tokri, a stunningly woven fried potato basket.
It is this attention to regional detail, allied to an inventive sensibility, that makes Chutney Mary both a London institution and one of the most exciting Indian restaurants in London today.
This abundance of regional styles and types of dish allows plenty of scope for light lunches to be enjoyed at the bar, as well as a brunch set menu that pairs some of the restaurant’s most-loved dishes with inventive brunch cocktails, like the Chutney Bloody Mary and a mango mojito.
This also extends to the desserts, with a clever halwa soufflé sitting alongside an indulgent salted caramel kulfi.
Making the restaurant’s variety and sense of fun perfect for both and celebration bookings like anniversaries and birthdays.
Larger groups can also benefit from set menus, removing the need to choose and freeing everybody to enjoy their occasion knowing food and drink are expertly taken care of.